No Sew Hats

These little no-sew hats are a great project for anyone who wants to help but doesn't sew. They're quick and easy and nice and stretchy (one of the most important things for angel hats)

Look at how much these little hats stretch!

Hat un-stretched

Hat stretched wide

Ok here's how to make these no-sew hats:

This is the main thing you need to get started:

This is my favorite place to buy the stockinette so far - Express Medical Supply. I have yet to find it in local stores. If anyone has another good resource for finding this, let me know!

Orthopedic Stockinette
Cotten Stockinette is a tan/flesh color

Synthetic Stockinette is white - or at least closer to white. It's a little off white, but close enough.

For the smallest hats (less than 20 weeks) you'll need 2" wide

20-26 weeks = 3" wide

26-32 weeks = 4" wide

As for length you'll need about 8" for 2" wide, 11" for the 3" wide, and 15" for the 4" wide

For this tutorial I'll be using the 4 " wide stockinette and making one of the larger hats.

First fold the stockinette inside of it's self. It should be doubly thick, with all the cut ends at the same end.

Be careful not to let it get twisted up. You want it to lay nice and flat once it's folded up.

Pinch all the ends together

And then secure the pinch with a piece of ribbon tied tightly. I generally put a bow in the ribbon for little girl hats and knot the ribbon for little boy hats.

Fold the brim up an inch or two

And you can be done right there! the hat is ready to go. But if you want to add some embellishments keep reading:

One of the easiest ways to embellish the hats is to add a shank button to the ribbon. Shank buttons have a little loop on the back of the button. It's a lot easier to tie on than a button with the regular holes in it.

You can also hot glue little ribbon roses to the ribbon for an easy embellishment:

 Finished hat sizes - they're half the original length you cut, but that makes it so there's no cut edges except at the top which is tied with a cute ribbon so it's not bothersome.

THIS is where I learned to do this

Small Diaper Pattern

Small Diaper Pattern

Sewn Pattern

18-25 week size

These finished diapers measure about 5" top to bottom, 1 1/4" at the crotch, and 5 1/2 " across the long tabs

We like to use 1 1/2" (or size 2) safety pins to close the diapers. But if you have a way that might be better that's fine too.

Small Diaper Pattern PDF

Instructions:

1. Print/cut out diaper pattern

2. With fabric folded right sides together, trace pattern onto wrong side of fabric
3. Cut diaper out

4. Sew 1/4" seam around diaper - right sides of fabric should be together

5. Trim off excess fabric

6. Turn diaper inside out so the right sides are out.

7. Iron/Press diaper

8. Top stitch diaper

9. Fold tabs in and safety pin together

For our large diaper pattern click HERE

Our pattern is loosely based off of several different patterns:
Skip To My Lou
Doll Diapers
Sizing as compared to Teeny Tears

and also some hand drawn patterns that I'm afraid I cannot link to as they're not anywhere online.
Thank you for your inspiration! Also, special thanks to the volunteers who helped write and test the patterns.

Terms of Use

We ask that our patterns/products made from these patterns not be sold. We create our patterns free of charge because we believe in providing clothes for angel babies free of charge for families who need them.

There are no stipulations on our patterns. Please feel free to use them and share them. We love to be inspired by seeing others work from our patterns and if you are interested in sharing pictures or stories with us email us at lilysangelcloset@gmail.com.

Large Diaper Pattern

Large Diaper Pattern

Sewn

26-30 week size

These diapers finished measure about 7" top to bottom, 1 1/2" at the crotch, and 7 1/2" across the long tabs.

We like to use 1 1/2" (or size 2) safety pins to close the diapers. But if you have a way that might be better that's fine too.

Large Diaper Pattern PDF

Instructions:

1. Print/cut out diaper pattern

2. With fabric folded right sides together, trace pattern onto wrong side of fabric
3. Cut diaper out

4. Sew 1/4" seam around diaper - right sides of fabric should be together

5. Trim off excess fabric

6. Turn diaper inside out so the right sides are out.

7. Iron/Press diaper

8. Top stitch diaper

9. Fold tabs in and safety pin together

For our smaller diaper pattern click HERE

Our pattern is loosely based off of several different patterns:
Skip To My Lou
Doll Diapers
Sizing as compared to Teeny Tears

and also some hand drawn patterns that I'm afraid I cannot link to as they're not anywhere online.
Thank you for your inspiration! Also, special thanks to the volunteers who helped write and test the patterns.

Terms of Use

We ask that our patterns/products made from these patterns not be sold. We create our patterns free of charge because we believe in providing clothes for angel babies free of charge for families who need them.

There are no stipulations on our patterns. Please feel free to use them and share them. We love to be inspired by seeing others work from our patterns and if you are interested in sharing pictures or stories with us email us at lilysangelcloset@gmail.com.

The Taylor Gown

 The Taylor Gown

26-30 week size

This is an exciting announcement for us - our first sewing pattern! There has been a lot of work going into this lately. Ginger took a couple of our favorite patterns and combined them to make a gown that is easy to sew and easy to dress on fragile little ones. We named the gown after her angel, Taylor. We are also working on getting this gown in more sizes, but for now this is the first of our Taylor Gowns:

Here is the pattern PDF

I realize now on the instructions I forgot to add tacking on the ribbons on the back. I do that very last after I put the neck ribbon on. You could also add velcro on the back in about the same place. We'll be doing a picture tutorial soon for those of you who would like more instructions.

Crochet Kimono Variations

Made with Caron simply soft yarn - F hook

Large size outfit - typically fits 20-22 week angel babies

Start with the basic Kimono pattern - for ease of writing this pattern these instructions are written for the 20 week size outfits. To size them down isn't hard - but all the numbers of stitches change.

The basic kimonos are a good place if you're just learning these patterns. These variations are simply to add some more decorations to the basic kimonos. These will have more difficult stitches than the basic kimonos which are all sc. You can find the pattern for the basic kimono HERE. This post will be updated with more variations as we figure them out. On this page I will be posting patterns that work for both boy and girl outfits - for all the little girl dress options visit the Kimono Dress Pattern.

SH = 3 stitches in one stitch

Chain 33 - turn

Row 1: sc 4 - SH - sc 6 - SH - sc 8 - SH - sc 6 - SH - sc 4 - ch 1 - turn
Row 2: sc 2 in first stitch - sc across - sc 2 in last stitch - total of stitches = 42 - ch 1 - turn
Row 3: sc 6 - SH - sc 8 - SH - sc 10 - SH - sc 8 - SH - sc 6 - ch 1 - turn
Row 4: sc 2 in first stitch - sc across - sc 2 in last stitch - total of stitches = 52 - ch 1 - turn
Row 5: sc 8 - SH - sc 10 - SH - sc 12 - SH - sc 10 - SH - sc 8 - ch 1 - turn
Row 6: sc 2 in first stitch - sc across - sc 2 in last stitch - total of stitches = 62 - ch 1 - turn
Row 7: sc 10 - SH - sc 12 - SH - sc 14 - SH - sc 12 - SH - sc 10 - ch 1 - turn
Row 8: sc 2 in first stitch - sc across - sc 2 in last stitch - total of stitches = 72 - ch 1 - turn
Row 9: sc 12 - skip 15 - sc 18 - skip 15 - sc 12 - ch 1 - turn

Cable Stitch Kimono

Row 10: sc 2 in first stitch, sc 1, fpdc 1 one row down, sc 2, fpdc 1, sc 2, fpdc 1, sc across the outfit - sc 2 in last stitch - ch 1 - turn.

Row 11: sc across - ch 1 - turn

Row 12: sc 3, fpdc around fpdc two rows below, sc 2, fpdc 1, sc 2, fpdc 1, sc across - ch 1 - turn.

Odd rows - repeat Row 11

Even rows - repeat Row 12

End after row 27 - edge entire outfit. Make sure to leave button holes along the side of the front flap that has the cabling.

For the smaller 18 week size outfits use this Row 12: sc 1, fpdc 1, sc 1, fpdc 1, sc 1, fpdc 1, sc across. 

Crochet Kimono Dress

Kimono Dress Crochet Pattern

Made with Caron simply soft yarn - F hook

Large size outfit - typically fits 20-22 week angel babies

This pattern comes from our Crochet Kimono Pattern - if you find you have questions on the general pattern you might check that pattern out. This pattern is mostly just for the different options for the skirts.  If you get stuck or find an error please let me know.

Most of the time time I do plan on the buttons being in the back on these dress kimonos - but if you have the perfect buttons - the kimonos are reversible and they can be cute either way.

Skirts on the 20 week size outfits should end up being about 4 inches from the bottom of the arms to the bottom of the skirts - though a little longer is ok too.

SH = 3 stitches in one stitch - for these outfits they will be sc stitches.

Chain 33 - turn

Row 1: sc 4 - SH - sc 6 - SH - sc 8 - SH - sc 6 - SH - sc 4 - ch 1 - turn
Row 2: sc 2 in first stitch - sc across - sc 2 in last stitch - total of stitches = 42 - ch 1 - turn
Row 3: sc 6 - SH - sc 8 - SH - sc 10 - SH - sc 8 - SH - sc 6 - ch 1 - turn
Row 4: sc 2 in first stitch - sc across - sc 2 in last stitch - total of stitches = 52 - ch 1 - turn
Row 5: sc 8 - SH - sc 10 - SH - sc 12 - SH - sc 10 - SH - sc 8 - ch 1 - turn
Row 6: sc 2 in first stitch - sc across - sc 2 in last stitch - total of stitches = 62 - ch 1 - turn
Row 7: sc 10 - SH - sc 12 - SH - sc 14 - SH - sc 12 - SH - sc 10 - ch 1 - turn
Row 8: sc 2 in first stitch - sc across - sc 2 in last stitch - total of stitches = 72 - ch 1 - turn


For row 9 you only need to pick one option:

Plain

Row 9 (plain): sc 12 - skip 15 - ch 1 - sc 18 - skip 15  - ch 1 - sc 12 - ch 1 - turn (this row makes the sleeves) If you want to see this step with lots of pictures click HERE

Ruffles

Row 9 (ruffles): sc 12 - *sl st 1 - 3 hdc in next stitch* - repeat * to * for the length of the sleeve (I usually get 7 ruffles) - to close off the sleeve fold the ruffle section in half and sc through both sides of the sleeve - sc 18  - repeat * to * across the other sleeve - close of sleeve, sc to the end of the row - ch 1 - turn.

Ribbons

Row 9 (ribbons): sc 12 - *ch 2 - skip 1 - hdc 1* - repeat * to * for the length of the sleeve end with a ch 2 and then a sc that will close off the sleeve - you should have 8 holes - to close off the sleeve fold the sleeve section in half and sc through both sides of the sleeve - sc  across the front (15-16 stitches)  - repeat * to * across the other sleeve (8 holes) - close of sleeve, sc to the end of the row - ch 1 - turn. Once you are done crocheting the sleeves you can weave a ribbon in and out of the hdc stitches. I like to use 1/4 inch ribbon - but if your stitches are too small for that size ribbon you can do a dc instead of a hdc. 

 I start my ribbon underneath the arm and thread it up both sides separately then tie it at the top. If you have an even number of holes there should just be one hdc post between the ends of the ribbon at the top.


Skirt options: 

Straight skirt with ruffles at the bottom

Row 10 - 25 - sc across - ch 1 - turn
Row 26 - *sc 2 - sc 2 in next stitch* - repeat * to * all the way across - ch 1 - turn
Row 27 - *sl st 1,  3 hdc in next stitch, skip 1* - repeat * to * all the way across. Edge the rest of the outfit with sc - don't edge the ruffle. You can add button holes along one side or thread a ribbon just under the arms to tie outfit closed.

Bobble skirt

Row 10: *sc 2 - sc 2 in next stitch* - repeat * to * all the way across - ch 1 - turn.
Row 11: *sc 1, tc 1* - repeat * to * across - make sure to end with a sc, even if you have to do 2 sc in a row - ch 1 - turn.
Row 12: sc across - ch 1 - turn.
Row 13: * sc 2, tc 1* - repeat * to * across - make sure to end with a sc, even if you have to do 2 sc in a row. You start with 2 sc stitches to off set the bobbles so they don't end up in lines.  - ch 1 - turn.
Row 14: sc across - ch 1 - turn.
Repeat rows 11-14 until dress is desired length. You can then add a ruffle edge if you want. Edge the rest of the outfit with sc - but not the ruffle edge. You can add button holes along one side or thread a ribbon just under the arms to tie outfit closed.

Shell Skirt

Row 10: *sc 2 - sc 2 in next stitch* - repeat * to * all the way across - ch 1 - turn.
Row 11: *sc 1, sk 1, dc sh (3 dc) in next, sk 1* repeat * to * across - ch 1 - turn
Row 12: sc in the middle stitch of the dc sh on the row below, dc sh in the sc of the row below - repeat all the way across - ch 1 - turn.

If you want a tutorial for the shell skirt click HERE.

Repeat Row 12 till the skirt is desired length. When your row ends with 3 dc just do 2 dc to make a nice edge. For the row after that just sc in the furthest out stitch. Edge the rest of the outfit - but don't edge the ruffle. You can add button holes along one side or thread a ribbon just under the arms to tie outfit closed.

You can do any of these patterns on the smaller (18 weeks) gowns or the larger (26 weeks) gowns simply by doing the same stitches. The number of stitches will be off - but it should still work pretty well.